Monday, October 30, 2006

Idyllic Kaduna

I realised today that it has been a week since I posted something new on my blog and even worse, I couldn’t think of anything to write about nor did I feel like I gave enough of a damn about anything to actually blog about it. So I reached out to fellow blogger Noni Moss for some help. After a few rather unhelpful suggestions: Her: ‘Write about politics’. Me: ‘Erm okay, vague much?’ She e-mailed me this rather good suggestion: ‘You can blog about your experiences in Nigeria - North vs. South. Give us southerners and typical Lagosians an insight into life in the North that is otherwise a clouded stereotypical view of bush illiterate Northerners with no amenities’. After I had finished bristling at that description of the North, I laughed and started write, so thanks Noni Moss!

I’m not going to compare the North and South because they’re very different, and also, I only lived in the South (Lagos) for a year so I don’t think I could write an informed piece about what it is like to grow up there.

I was born in Kaduna and spent the next nine years of my life there. What did I like the most? Well for starters, I loved our house. It wasn’t the biggest house in the world, but it is the only house that my dad actually built (that I know of and that I lived in). It was a bungalow (my parents didn’t think steps were safe for children) that in itself was very quaint but the absolute best thing about that house was the garden. My dad was the first to build in that part of Kaduna and he had secured a huge piece of land. Our house could have fit into the garden about ten times. It had a gravel road leading from the gates to the garage and behind the garage were the boys’ quarters. We also had a chicken farm, a farm that my grand dad set up for us when he came to visit, a strawberry patch, a small vineyard and our absolute favourite to play in, two pagodas linked together. One of them had a bar and we had all our birthday parties in them. We also played in them incessantly and it was the first place all our friends wanted to go to when they came to our house. We also had four dogs; Stella, Lina, Peggy and Speaky and a cat; Jemaima in the years we lived there. Jemaima was a Siamese cat who had been castrated and as a result was enormous. We had taken her and Stella in from some British friends of my father’s who were moving back to England and she never ever liked anyone except my father. We never saw her except for when my dad came back from work. He would go to his room, take off his shoes, go and sit in his chair with his legs stretched out in front of him and one of the house girls would bring him his food. Then, and only then, would she come into the house and sit on his outstretched feet. And as soon as he finished eating, she would get up and leave the house to return the next day at the same time.

I loved that house!

But it wasn’t just the house I loved. Kaduna was a great place to grow up. We had so many opportunities I don’t know if we would have had if we had lived anywhere else. We took French lessons at Alliance Francais and had piano lessons down the road from there. We had Sunday lunch at the rugby club and had Karate lessons and ate suya at Kaduna Club. We took swimming lessons at Hamdala hotel and had English breakfasts with our favourite uncle at the Durbar hotel when he was in town. We watched my dad perform in ‘Oklahoma’ and ‘Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves’ at the British Council. He was the peddler in one and the leader of the forty thieves in the other, if you’re interested. And we had so many amazing friends. Gosha and Danny, Susan, Samantha and Victoria, Sandra, Iko and Sylvia, all of whom we went to Essence International school with before my dad decided that the standard of education in private schools wasn’t up to scratch and sent us off to Air force school! Itohan, Ayo and Tunde, Isioma, Ogadi and Ngozi, Kaltume and Yakaka, Dili and Akalaka are all faces that made my childhood the amazing experience it was.

I know people talk about the North being backwards but I don’t think that’s an accurate assessment by any means. At the time, all the Northern factions of the embassies were based in Kaduna, Kano had an international airport, a cinema was built in Kaduna over 10 years ago and we had all the hypermarkets that are only just now springing up in Lagos.

I can’t possibly talk about my childhood without talking about Zaria. My Yaya and Papou (Grandma and Granddad) lived in Zaria and we spent all our school holidays there playing with the Greek boys that lived round the corner and eating my Yaya’s famous home-made ice cream while they marvelled at the fact that we would watch ‘The Sound of Music’ and ‘Oklahoma’ at least once a day everyday without getting bored. They had one house as well that stands out as being amazing to stay in. It had gorgeous rosebushes and a tire swing round the back. My Yaya is always telling us the story about how Papou was supposed to take us for dinner to our favourite Lebanese restaurant one evening and he came back really late from the farm so by the time he had a shower and drove us to the restaurant we were ravenous. Being the little impatient children we were, we filled up on the bread and hummus and by the time the main meal arrived (huge chicken kebabs if I remember correctly), we were stuffed and had even fallen asleep. Since we didn’t touch our food, my Yaya asked my Papou to ask the waiter to wrap it up so we could take it home with us. My Papou, being somewhat shy, didn’t want to say it was for the children so he said we wanted the left overs for the dogs. No harm, no foul … till the next afternoon when Yaya unwrapped the package in the fridge to serve it to three children and found out it was a pile of bones. I guess the poor people in the restaurant were like ‘Look at these yeye white people, they want to take good meat and feed it to their dogs, please jo, dogs eat bones!’

Anybody who knows me knows that I’m adamant that I’ll never ever move back to Nigeria. What they don’t know is that I’d move back in a heartbeat to Kaduna if it had remained exactly the same as it was when we grew up there.

14 comments:

Noni Moss said...

Aaawwww - how sweet - the idyllic picture of childhood. Having visited some the places you mention, its amazing how many memories it brings up. Like how cold it could be in Kaduna - so my aunt would suggest we have a shower at night so we didn't freeze in the mornings (although now I don't see if that makes much sense or maybe I'm just making it up). I also remember the contrast in weather - Like it would be cold in the mornings - you would need to wear big thick sweaters and cardigans and by midday - it would be sweltering heat so you'd have to strip off, only to pile on the layers again at night.

Fond memories of my holidays. I also remember how much cleaner and fresher it seemed than my smog-filled, condensed home of Lagos.

This is beautifully written Miss 1982, probably my favourite of your pieces.

Noni Moss said...

Btw - my comment was more to rile you to make you write something provocative. I dont think the North is bad nor can I say that most Southerners or Lagosians thing that. Actually Nigeria doesnt really have a south, so should i say most Westies, may not think that.

LondonBuki said...

I have heard stories from friends who grew up in the North... never been anywhere up North...

I am London born and Lagos bred... LOL!!!

I really liked this 1982, well written and this makes me more curious about how the North is/was...

Naijadude said...

Aww....such a pleasant memory eh!
I have never been to the North but I heard some lovely stories, mostly about Kaduna. Doesnt sound like a bad place...but thinking of Nigeria again, arghhhhh! Kill me first!

soul said...

Gosh.. this made me imagine myself being a child playing with you.
I went to nigeria recently after being away for 9 long years.. I went North to Abuja and even I swore that if I ever lied in Nigeria I would move North.

Maybe cos I haven't experienced as much of it as I would like.

Your childhood home sounds like something outof a fairytale book.. how marvelous is that

Biodun said...

I like this post, I dont really know anything about the north, so it gave great insights, ur childhood sounds so great, I guess places never remain the same. I was born in London n grew up in Lagos

LondonBuki said...

Hey, thanks for your words :-)

Enjoy your weekend and hope your running's going ok :-)

Anonymous said...

Great post, your description of your childhood in Kaduna is so evocative and real. The story about the 'doggy bag' is really sweet. Thank God for memories...

Uzo said...

Okay: This is weird. Do i know you? I have friends that live in Kaduna and went to Essence International. We ended up in school in England together....Wierd huh? I love this blog....

Anonymous said...

I went to Zaria and Kaduna once and stayed for about 2 weeks while my dad was working up there, I was 8yrs old, and loved it! This was in 1988, it wasnt Lagos but there was an air of it that made me want to stay there and be stuck in that world. My dad worked and lived in Zaria, and just about every day they would take us to Kaduna, we'd go by ABU, or stop by military Schl to see my cousins there...my naive Lagos bred, Igbo self was amazed. Fond memories...my mom and her siblings were born in Zaria, and her Igbo self learned Hausa as a 1st language, she went to elementary schl there, and was sent back to the East for boarding schl, unfortuantely her Hausa sucks big time now :(

I loved this write up, it brought back memories I havent thought about it a long while. Thanks :)

Anonymous said...

i thought it was only my siblings and i that were addicted to watching ‘The Sound of Music’ and ‘Oklahoma’.
how come you never want to move back to nigeria? i didn't really grow up in nigeria, and i haven't been back to visit in 10 years so i think perhaps i have romanticized the place... but i can see myself (at the very least) retiring there.

Unknown said...

@ Belle: I loved growing up in Nigeria and if I could do it all again, I'd do it exactly the same and while there are lots of great things about living in Nigeria, there are too many things I take for granted about my life in England that I wouldn't have in Nigeria. My independence, electricity and water. I'd struggle with the inevitability of knowing that one day I'll be a victim of armed robbers and the most I can hope for is that when it happens, that I'm alive at the end of it all.

I never say never though!

Eminie said...

Hello Chic!
Kaduna is simply alluring! I always look forward to going there, my parents live there now. Every time I go there visiting there is always something new in terms of infrastructure - Good roads, pipe borne water etc
its the only town I have been to and there was just power surge once for two weeks!!!

MOOJO said...

i'ts odd i went to essence International school, primary 6.. and then went unto Air Force Kaduna... i was only fooling around wanting to find old friend... they should have graduated 2000... have any clue?